by Eva Gizowska
- 18/03/2008
It's late afternoon as I step off the plane into the glare of bright sunlight at Larnaca airport.
Having picked up my baggage, I'm soon whisked away in a minibus headed for Paphos, to the west of the island. The journey takes us along the coast and through rugged Greek Cypriot countryside. Being so close to North Africa, darkness falls quickly here. So, by the time we reach the Almyra Hotel, the skies are black.
The first jaw dropping moment of the trip comes outside the hotel. The driver – a sultry, brooding, Cypriot Heathcliff type - has mistakenly taken us round the back of the hotel. So, he needs to reverse, not only the minibus, but also the 'pull along' contraption at the back that's carrying all our heavy suitcases. So, what does he do? We all watch in awe as he ever so casually lifts and manoeuvres the 'pull along' (the size of small van) into the right position with his bare hands.
Moments after this impromptu display of strength, we're checking into the Almyra. This stunning white washed design hotel - sister hotel to the world famous Anassa - is set in eight acres of landscaped gardens, with views across the bay. The overall theme is – stylish, white and simple. The bedrooms are a treat with pristine, white bed linen, floor to ceiling windows and floaty, muslin drapes. The rest of the hotel is equally understated with marble floors and amazing, panoramic views onto the sea.
The Almyra is also billed as child friendly. So, there are plenty of facilities to keep parents and children happy, including a daily Children's Club and a Creche. There is also a Baby Go Lightly programme, where you can pre-book everything you need – from baby buggies, carry cots, car seats, bottles, baby food and nappies. Perfect for parents who don't want the hassle of lugging extra baby equipment.
The first evening is spent over a leisurely meal in the Mosaic restaurant at the hotel. We feast on a delicious mix of Japanese, Mediterranean and Cypriot dishes that include noodle salad, 'lacquered' quails and fresh fish, washed down with local wines. The evening is enhanced by live music and the DJ Johnnie Licorice's choice of ambient sounds. Think Hotel Costes meets acid jazz meets Brazilian meets North African.
The next morning we set off to the tiny village of Axylou to see how Halloumi cheese is made. We pass carob, cypress, orange, lemon and almond trees, with pretty, pink blossoms, along the way. The weather is perfect – sunny with bright blue skies, and a gentle breeze. We watch as two local women pound and knead the Halloumi (made from goat's milk). Afterwards we try some, and also the Kaskavali, a hard goat's cheese, with fresh bread from the village bakery.
From here we go on to Nikoklia, a beautiful, rustic, sleepy, village, where we stop off for a glass of chilled Keo, the local beer, at 'Vasilias Nikoklis'. This is a delightful, traditional Cypriot style house – open as a bar, restaurant and hotel - with cool, dark stone floors, a central courtyard, bedecked with jasmine and other flowers. There are eight double suites with en suite bathrooms and an outdoor pool. The house can also be hired as a wedding venue.
Lunch is a vast fish meze – prawns, octopus, squid, crab, scallops, and fresh fish, including a mouthwatering sea bass - at the Atlantida restaurant in Paphos.
Afterwards, feeling stuffed to the gills, we make our way to visit the Tombs of the Kings, one of the the most famous archeological sites in Paphos. These underground tombs carved out of solid rock were once the burial sites of local aristocrats, rather than royalty, and date back to 4th century BC. We also visit the Mosaics at the Villa Dionysos and House of Aion. These were once noblemen's villas and all that remains today are the beautiful mosaic floors that depict scenes from Greek mythology.
The following day, we are picked up in a four-wheel Land Royal Defender for a drive along the Akamas coast. We pass the bay of Agios Georgios, a small fishing village, and stop off along the way for a swim at the deserted Lara beach. This coastline is home to trees, flowers and herbs, including lemon and mimosa trees, and wild thyme. It also famous as a hatching ground for loggerhead and green turtles.
At the Paphos Bird Park, which houses a bird sanctuary and small zoo there is the cutest mini goat and black baby piglet. The creepiest bit is the snake house, where I almost retch when I spot a python's 'lunch': a tiny mouse cowering behind a twig in the corner of the snake 'cage'.
Our own lunch is in a traditional Taverna where we are served another waist expanding Meze (one of many) meat this time, with fresh hummus, tzatziki, taramasalata, spicy sausages, grilled halloumi, stuffed vine leaves, all kinds of meat dishes – pork, lamb, beef – fresh bread, salad. The meals ends with strong Cypriot coffee and Cypriot delights (like Turkish delight).
Afterwards, we go for a stroll round Paphos Harbour. Paphos, the former capital of Cyprus in ancient times, is also the mythical birthplace of Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love and beauty. According to legend Aphrodite rose from the rocks in the sea at Petra Tou Romiou (The Rock of The Greek).
One of the myths associated with the rock today is that the more times you swim round it – the luckier you'll be in love. Our guide Kris is more down to earth. "The more you swim, the better your figure," he says. "And, that's why you'll be lucky in love." We never actually get to Petra Tou Romiou. We round off our day with a glass bottom boat trip to see the Vera K shipwreck instead.
We spend the penultimate day exploring the area around the Troodos mountains. The mountains are located towards the centre of the island. The highest peak is Mount Olympus where the Military have established an observatory. The Troodos are dotted with tiny mountain villages. There are also ski resorts here in the winter. In fact, there is still plenty of snow here now at the beginning of spring. This is all rather surreal – as I never expected snow in Cyprus. So, in effect if you get the timing right – eg: end February, March - you could come to Cyprus for a sun, sea, sand and ski holiday.
There are also numerous Byzantine monasteries in the area, adorned with the most spectacular Greek Orthodox icons.
On the last night I stay at the Elias Beach Hotel in Limassol – the second largest city in Cyprus. A lively, vibrant coastal town with acres of sandy beaches, great restaurants, bars and shops.
Next morning we visited to Kourion Theatre – one of the most incredible archeological sites in Cyprus. This amazing 2nd century amphitheatre set amongst stunning landscapes, overlooking the Mediterranean sea, has been fully restored and is used as a popular venue for plays and concerts.
Next to it is the House of Eustolios, once a Roman villa, where you can see beautiful mosaics. I spend my final moments soaking up the sun's rays on the steps of the ancient amphitheatre - the perfect spot to end a wonderful few days.
For more information on Cyprus, visit www.visitcyprus.com or call the Cyprus Tourism Organisation on tel: 0207 569 8800.
Cyprus Airways operates flights to Cyprus from London, Manchester and Birmingham. For reservations, log on www.cyprusair.com or call tel: 0208 359 1333.
Accommodation at Almyra Hotel – prices start from 75 Euros, £43.90 for a garden view room; 150 Euros, £87.79 for a terrace sea view room; Junior Suite (2 person) – 325 Euros, £190.21
Elias Beach Hotel – prices from £58 per person for standard room – maximum 3 people per room
